Polynesian Invention
Horue in Tahitian, Holua in Hawaiian, Horu is a common concept in several Polynesian languages, which express among other meanings, the ocean depths that the hollow of a large wave let us foresee. It is undoubtedly for this reason that by derivation it also means to glide on a wave break and today to “surf.” To become obsolete, fa’ahe’e (i.e. to glide) is presently the term use the most, ‘iri fa’ahe’e representing the surfboard. The Horue, this hobby and Polynesian entertainment were described for the first time by one of Captain Cook’s lieutenants — in the islands of Hawaii in 1779. But it was also practiced in the Society Islands as witnessed by James Morrison, one of the deserter seamen of Bounty in 1788: “For this entertainment, they use a wooden board of variable length, swim to the start of the swell, wait for a wave to form, sometimes more than a mile from shore, and lying flat belly on the board, they move forward with the wave with an extraordinary speed. Men and women excel in this sport and some are even able to stand on the board. In his praised song “Tahiti aux temps anciens” by Teuira Henry, it is said that the water in Maha’ena on the east coast of Tahiti was famous for the surf, particularly at the spots named Put’ihani and To’a-tane where the beautiful Hinaraure’a, wife of the half god Turi, excelled and surpassed all the champions of this sport. Her unequalled exploits in this sport had given her the name of To’u’ura-oi-ore (glorious excellence never tested) for her ability to guide the board, which never deviates, from the target. The boards at that time are wooden boards. They can weigh over 60kg for size reaching 4m.

Traditional practice
The same as for the other games and entertainment that are on the water or on the beach such as the totoie, the titira’ina, the ‘aumoa, the pauma, the practice of the horue involved the training of young men descendants of ari’i, hiva and toa: to better know and to better control the winds, the swells, the currants, take advantage of the power of the wave and of the swell in order to go faster while learning to glide better in the ocean. With the disappearance of these socio-politico-religious descendants, the population kept these games, which they continue to pass on to the young generations on the occasions of inter-community competitions. Active process of apprenticeship and sailing training, they become true sporting disciplines of competition open to men and women. During Cook’s period, it appears that the Polynesians used already three types of different boards and that their manufacturing complied with the precise criteria within the competence to acquire the term of gliding.

Forgetting and rebirth
With the colonization and the evangelization of the Polynesian islands, the surf fell into neglect and was devalued. For the new dominant religion, it wasn’t suitable to waste time for such game which was practiced, in addition, quasi naked in the water whether it’s for men or women. It will be necessary to wait until the years 1920.

Ideal conditions
Practically in the center of the largest ocean on earth, the Polynesian islands are exposed to strong swells in the Pacific. The surfing season is all year-around. Not far from the shore, the depth of the ocean is a few kilometers because the islands are high peaks from ancient volcanoes. Since they are not stopped by the bottom of the oceans, the swells brutally crashed on the shores where the reef barriers and develop the perfect and most beautiful waves. In addition to their clarity, the temperature between 23 to 26 degrees also defines the Tahitian waters. The sunny days are very important that complement the Polynesian climate, which constitute an asset — with average temperature of 28 degrees.

Surfing all-year round
During the winter in the northern hemisphere, from November to April, strong depressions located in the North East of Pacific, provide long swells that will particularly affect the Polynesian shores (north and north-west). Between June and September during the winter, the swells are formed by depressions in the Southern hemisphere, next to the Antarctic and will break on the Polynesian shores south and southeast.

Finally, the swells called ‘storms’ sometimes hit French Polynesia. Following depressions and tropical cyclones in the South Pacific, they are defined by their strength. The worldwide and local elite surfers anticipate the swells for exceptional surfing conditions.

The progress from marine meteorology allows today to give notice in advance before the arrival of heavy swell.

Diversity of the waves
With the coral reef encircling the high island, French Polynesia offers many surfing spots ‘reef break’ or reef wave. Crashing on the reef breaks, these powerful waves, very shallow and are perfect for ‘tubes.’ FP also offers ‘shore breaks’ in areas that are not protected by a reef barrier. The waves crash on the beaches developing ‘beach break,’ or on rocking shores. If the reef breaks are reserved to advanced surfers, the beach breaks, mainly on Tahiti, constitute ideal zones for beginners.

Finally, FP provides deep waves. When the swell is strong and crashing in the ocean, those waves are called ‘maoti’ for local surfers. Very powerful, these waves are generally done by tow in or pulled by Jet Ski and of course, reserved to the experts.

Spots for international competition
Many surf spots in Tahiti are known worldwide. The mythical wave of Teahupo’o near the pass of Hava’e, 70 km from Papeete, is famous for its beauty, its force, and more importantly because it is dangerous. Every year, in early May, 44 of the best surfers in the world meet at this location for the Billabong Pro competition.

The most important names in Surf, namely Hawaiian Surfer laird Hamilton go to Teahupo’o to surf waves that can reach more than 10 meters.

Many other spots are known worldwide such as Papeno’o on the island of Tahiti, Ta’apuna a Punaauia and Tema’e on the island of Moorea.

Renowned Surfers
A surf country, French Polynesia counts many famous surfers such as Vetea David, first Polynesian surfer to acquire the junior World champion title, who remained for 10 years in professional tournaments, Arsene Harehoe, France Champion in 1983, Hira Teriinatoofa, Amateur World Champion ISA in 2004 and also Patricia Rossi, Europe Champion in 2000. New generations of champions are taking over such as Mc Comb, Junior World Champion in 2008 and Michel Bourez, Junior Europe Champion in 2006.

Outside competitions, Polynesian surfers such as Manoa Drollet, Vetea David, Arsene Harehoe, and Raimana Van Bastolaer are well known for the quality of their surfing, namely on the big waves.

A popular activity and a real culture
Surf is one of the most popular sports in French Polynesia. We count approx. 20,000 surfers in the country.

Beyond the simple enjoyment of this sport, surf is a real phenomenon in the Society Islands. An important economy developed around it: boards creation, the “shapers,” clothing and accessories. Surf is present everywhere in Tahiti and her islands. All year round you have competitions. More and more international surfers come take a Surf trip in Tahiti. They rent boats and are guided by local surfers; they travel to discover unspoiled spots or unknown more specifically in other Archipelagoes such as the Australs, Marquesas or the Tuamotu.

Main spots
Tahiti: West Coast
Hava’a pass in Teahupo’o , Pass Te Ava’Ino, Te Ava Iti and Vaira’o, Mitirapa, Ti’ama’o, Mara’a, Taharu’u Beach, Sapinus — Fishing Point in Ta’apuna.

Tahiti: East Coast
Arue Reef, Layafette Beach, Point Venus reef, Ahonu, Orofara, Rocky Point, The Bay, Papeno’o.

Moorea
Ha’apiti, Tema’e, Cook’s Bay and Opunohu, Beachcomber and Atiha.

Huahine
Fiti’I, Parea and Ava Mo’a Pass

Main competitions
Billabong Pro — Teahupo’o — Early May (Teahupo’o — Tahiti)
Air Tahiti Nui — Von Zipper Trials, End of April (Teahupo’o, Tahiti)
Ta’apuna Master — September (Punaauia, Tahiti)
Te Ava Ava Nui — Long Board Classic, end of December (Papeno’o, Tahiti)

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